Frame Preparation

Due to the box design of the frame it tends to hold water etc. and is impossible to sand blast and prime (the inside of the box). What alternatives or solutions are there. Also, I’ve been told the best primer for the frame is a two part etching primer, anyone have experience with them? Thank you – Ian 150fhc

Ian, Classic Parts & Panels Ltd. in England makes the rear section your looking for. Telephone:01296 651910 Fax: 01296 651912 Good Luck. – Ron, 150 dhc

Also offered by Wray Schelin @ WESPARTS…Wray may be too modest to speak up (US 508.347.7749) – Jim Warren

To all, I’m glad you brought this up. Wray is a generous participant in this forum, and as such should be considered for any metal purchase. Let’s try to make purchases from our “local merchants”. 🙂 – Ken Boetzer

I agree with Ken. I have bought and used Wray’s products. Recently, I recommended Wray to a local metal craftsman who is completing extensive metal work on a friend’s 120 OTS. The local craftsman is also impressed by the quality.

Concerning Wray’s products, the dimensions are accurate, drilled holes are positioned accurately, flanges are sized and positioned properly, caged nut assemblies are located precisely, etc. I have replaced sills, both hinge and shut pillar assemblies, battery box assemblies, front wing repair sections, rear wing repair sections at the leading edge, spare tire tray assemblies, scuttle channel sections, both firewall toe boards, etc., on my 120 OTS and my 150 FHC. I have learned to appreciate the difference in a quality reproduced sheet metal product from the inferior products I purchased earlier for these two project cars. I have found that when you get this involved in an extensive metal rework project on the XK series, you want replacement parts that are dimensionally correct, line up, have fittings positioned accurately, etc. Before I bought from Wray, I used another “stateside source”. Generally speaking, metal replacement parts from the other “stateside source” are less costly than Wray. But I got fooled by the cost savings. On nearly every piece I had to redrill, remove spot welds, and reweld in order to make the replacement part fit. It is hard enough to remove old material without damaging adjoining parts. So, you don’t want to have to rework the replacement part too. At any rate, I reluctantly accepted this task. Did I really save money on the metal parts? Yes. But I probably doubled my labor time on these cars since I had to rework parts from the other “stateside source”. I have one more project car I hope to complete. I know the best source for my metal replacement needs. Record it as another learning exercise. For those attending the Hershey, PA event during October 7-11, stop by to chat at spaces CM 61 & CM 62. I will be close to Dave Laughton at CN 42 & CN 43. – Bob Oates